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    With the bracing complete I switched my attention to the rising tongue on the neck.  In order the bring the tongue down I decided to remove some wood underneath this area.  The tongue was already separating a little and I increased the depth of the separation using the thin blade of a japanese pull saw. […]

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  • Clamping

    It took a while to figure out the clamping orientation.  The clamps would on fit at certain point in the f-holes and only a certain angles.  With a bit of trial and error I figured out an arrangement that allowed 4 clamps are regular intervals.

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  • Injecting the glue

    Here is the glue syringe I used. It has a long brass extension tube added which is crimped at the tip to slip under the tone bars and restrict the amount of glue dispensed. Here is a little video of me injecting the glue.  Using the camera I was able to guide my extended syringe […]

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    The tongue curves up drastically starting just after the 12th fret.  The fingerboard has separated from the neck in this area. My plan is to clean out the old glue and possibly remove some wood from under this area to allow the fingerboard to be glued flat.

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    I determined the string buzz is due to a low string break angle at the bridge.  The bridge is tilting forward slightly and the original break angle has been reduced considerably.  The strings go through the bridge in oversized holes and the reduced angle is allowing the string to move around creating the buzz.  To […]

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  • 1953 Gibson L-48 with tone bars

    A customer brought in the nice Gibson L-48 because the top is sinking under the bridge.  This repair poses some real challenges.  Access to the interior is limited to the two f-holes which don’t give much room for visibility, clamping, or maneuvering.  In order to help with all of the above I ordered a tiny […]

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  • Hollowing the back

    With the back roughed to shape I was able to begin removing wood from the inside. I traced the outline of  my center blocks and determined which areas to hollow.  I mounted a dowel underneath a drill bit in the drill press and set the depth stop to stop 1/4 above the dowel.  The dowel […]

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  • Carving the back

    I glued the back up from bookmatched mahogany. With the back cut just a bit oversize I established the ouside depth using the router.  I routed a 1/2 inch groove around the perimeter and started rounding the back to this line.  I was able to remove much of the wood with a flat plane and […]

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    The corners are definitely the trickiest part.  If you have the original covering it is a good idea to take note of the method used.  It is helpful to have the original to covering to use as a cutting guide or pictures of the desired result.  It came out looking great. A new grill cloth […]

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    Contact cement is applied to all mating surfaces using a sponge roller and allowed to dry.  The sides of the amp are were done first.  Painters tape is useful for masking areas that are not being glued. The contact cement will grab instantly so it  must be positioned accurately and smoothed a little at a […]